5 October 2008

City girl

I was brought up on the edge of a small town in Berkshire, but I’ve always been a city girl. I don’t think the world is divided into those who love cities and those who hate them. It’s divided into those of us who enjoy short periods in the country, but for whom cities are our lifeblood – and the rest. I just walk taller in the city.

The attraction of cities when you’re young is obvious. Things to do, people to meet, the anonymity which allows you to make mistakes without someone telling your parents (although by this definition Belfast is not a city), a sense of possibilities and of opportunities – along with the more scary options of loneliness and failure, of course: see Jonathan Raban’s Soft City.

As one gets older, the cultural aspects of city life begin to appeal rather more, along with the politics, the architecture and general ambience, and of course the shops. It’s also possible to start taking the city for granted. When in London, I got used to being able to catch world class art, music and theatre without making much of an effort. If there was a national political demonstration, I didn’t have to think about transport beyond hopping on the bus down to Trafalgar Square. And when I lived 15 minutes by Tube from Oxford Circus, my credit card got a lot more exercise than it does today.

But cities are great for older people too. In London, I always said I would retire to the Barbican and go to concerts in my slippers. For older people, cities offer convenience, good health care, public transport which means we can give up the car, and enough culture, education and politics to keep the brain alive. The trend of moving to a city apartment after the kids have left home is entirely positive, in my opinion.

Living in Belfast, a small city, is different again. There’s an element of sophistication, of course, but also a lack of diversity and not enough good theatre and art. Belfast is remaking itself in the post-Troubles (but not post-conflict) era, but hasn’t yet decided what kind of city it wants to be, and who it wants to be for. Our fragmented politics isn’t helping here.

So – favourite cities? London is growing on me again after eight years of living elsewhere. I’m becoming fonder of Dublin, Toronto and Glasgow on closer acquaintance. Chicago is a recent discovery and Venice is unique. I’ll be visiting Perth for the first time next month, along with returning to Adelaide, Hobart, Melbourne and Sydney by New Year. So at the moment I would say Chicago, Vancouver and Sydney are the favourites, in reverse order – but that may change!

13 comments:

James I McAnespy said...

Living in London as a student isn't all it's cracked up to be. Sure there are all these opportunities for cultural betterment, but because costs of living are so high, you never have the disposable income to enjoy them. If you do, it's because you're working so much you don't have the time. I'm looking to get back to Belfast to be in at the ground floor for the development of its identity (and preferably influence it.)

Jenny Muir said...

James - I sympathise about the cost of living, especially rent and transport, which of course are interconnected - I bet you live a long way out from the centre in order to pay an affordable rent. In my day, rents were lower relative to income (or grants) and there was also a lot more squatting. But as you will know, there are also a lot of cheap or free things to do in London, as there are in many cities.

I'm also interested that you want to return to Belfast, because the experiences of people who have lived and worked elsewhere will be essential for its redevelopment. But get your degree first!

Johnny Guitar said...

I've lived in Belfast for just over three years now and to be honest I'm looking forward to leaving (everything going well I'll be gone by Christmas). I've had enough! Enough of the deserted streets on a Sunday. Enough of the post five o'clock ghost town that passes for a city centre. Enough of the first two weeks of July. Yes, the place has potential. For instance, the Cathedral Quarter could develop into something really great. As you say yourself though, the fragmented politics isn't helping things and I also don't detect any feeling of excitement around that we are actually going somewhere.

Armagh. Now, there's a real city...

Wisewebwoman said...

I too love cities, Jenny. And enjoy my sojourn in Toronto every year. I love the fact that it is an inhabited city - people live downtown which is the secret, I believe, of a successful city. Last time I was in Belfast it rolled itself into a ball after supper, does anyone live downtown?
I can understand your missing London. Vancouver, in spite of its beauty, I found cold.
One of these days we'll get you out to St. John's which is Jan Morris', the travel writer, favourite city in the world, everything is walkable and loads of culture and theatre and some fine restaurants. And again, people live right downtown.
XO
WWW

Jenny Muir said...

I'm getting some interesting comments on this post! JG - yes, one of the biggest problems with Belfast is the 'out of hours' desertion, and www's point about people living downtown is at the heart of that, something I need to think about as part of a research proposal I'm putting together at the moment. Although I find 'The Death and Life of American Cities' intensely irritating as I think Jacobs glosses over some of the problematic aspects of mixed use, she's right about that point.

To answer www's question - there are a few small apartment blocks in inner South Belfast, some more small scale apartments on the river, and, interestingly, social housing quite near the centre, but the big new development at Titanic Quarter is further away.

I didn't actually say I missed London, but I'm interested that it comes across! It was rather more that I'd like to import the best aspects of London to Belfast, as writing this post has made me realise just how far we have to go. I hope Nick and I do get to see St John's one day too!

And where is JG off to?

Nick said...

I certainly don't miss London, except for a few cultural benefits. London was overcrowded, noisy, crime-ridden, traffic-ridden, full of litter and graffiti, and all the public services were overstretched. Some good tourist attractions but living there was an uphill struggle. And it has none of the scenery we have around Belfast - the mountains, the beaches, the loughs. If I moved anywhere else, it would be Sydney or Vancouver which are far superior to London.

Jenny Muir said...

I wouldn't be as negative as Nick about London, but I do think I get the best of it when visiting rather than when living there. And Belfast has so many attractions, it's true, and has been getting a lot of publicity recently as a great place for weekend breaks. But, as others have pointed out, there's a lot more still to be done. As for where else to live, I would agree on Nick's choices (just as well!) but might add Dublin now, which is a bit more realistic too.

Paul said...

I'm a northern country boy ay heart and would not like to live in a city. But my favourite, Chester by a country mile (pun intended)! Belfast is okay, Dublin overated, London pap, NY (only worth visiting because it's NY. Overall though better cities are to be found in South America and some parts of Asia.

Jenny Muir said...

Hi Paul - more specific recommendations please! Also don't you think Dublin is improving?

Belfast Dave said...

I lived in London in the 70s, but didn't ever feel "connected". Then Berlin in the 80s, now that's a real city! More culture than London and more accessible too. I (we) intend to retire there.
Belfast, my home town, will always be a town for me.

Dave

Jenny Muir said...

Dave - I aspired to London, I suppose, from my childhood home in what has now become an outer suburd. I've not been to Berlin, so thanks for the recommendation, no doubt a conference will come up there at some point. I still think Belfast has real small city potential, but I'm beginning to wonder if one side-effect of sectarian division and politics is going to be that it is never realised. You can't make a vibrant city just by throwing money at it.

Gesa said...

hm... ditto about much you say... i'm off to berlin mid-week (again) - that was one of my plans from earlier in the year: to be in berlin more often, and it seems to be working. you going to australia sounds great - i'm envious. in fact, have been thinking of something similar for the next year (but too many other things to work out at the moment: and santiago de chile is on my list!!!);
the blog is looking great, jenny! i've been pretty sparse with blog reading of late, too many other things, but it's nice to drop in once in a while.
all the best,
gesa

Jenny Muir said...

Gesa - lovely to hear from you again. I'm still thinking about quality of life in cities, as I'm in Perth (Australia) at the moment and they are clearly doing something right! Begining to wonder if vision and strategy are a lot more important than detailed indicators, also thinking about the degree of autonomy at each level fo government/ governance and how it might best be used. None of which is new to either of us, of course.

Enjoy Berlin, and I would recommend a spell father away. And thanks for the blog compliment!